A Complete Account of the Settlement at Port Jackson

W >> Watkin Tench >> A Complete Account of the Settlement at Port Jackson


[*Look at the map for the situation of this place (Unfortunately, there is
no map accompanying this etext. Ed.)]


Our party was strong and numerous. It consisted of twenty-one persons,
viz. the governor, Mr. Collins and his servant, Mr. White, Mr. Dawes, the
author, three gamekeepers, two sergeants, eight privates, and our friends
Colbee and Boladeree. These two last were volunteers on the occasion, on
being assured that we should not stay out many days and that we should
carry plenty of provisions. Baneelon wished to go, but his wife would not
permit it. Colbee on the other hand, would listen to no objections. He only
stipulated (with great care and consideration) that, during his absence,
his wife and child should remain at Sydney under our protection, and be
supplied with provisions.

But before we set out, let me describe our equipment, and try to convey
to those who have rolled along on turnpike roads only, an account of those
preparations which are required in traversing the wilderness. Every
man (the governor excepted) carried his own knapsack, which contained
provisions for ten days. If to this be added a gun, a blanket, and a
canteen, the weight will fall nothing short of forty pounds. Slung to the
knapsack are the cooking kettle and the hatchet, with which the wood to
kindle the nightly fire and build the nightly hut is to be cut down. Garbed
to drag through morasses, tear through thickets, ford rivers and scale
rocks, our autumnal heroes, who annually seek the hills in pursuit of
grouse and black game, afford but an imperfect representation of the
picture.

Thus encumbered, the march begins at sunrise, and with occasional halts
continues until about an hour and a half before sunset. It is necessary to
stop thus early to prepare for passing the night, for toil here ends not
with the march. Instead of the cheering blaze, the welcoming landlord, and
the long bill of fare, the traveller has now to collect his fuel, to erect
his wigwam, to fetch water, and to broil his morsel of salt pork. Let him
then lie down, and if it be summer, try whether the effect of fatigue is
sufficiently powerful to overcome the bites and stings of the myriads of
sandflies and mosquitoes which buzz around him.

Monday, April 11, 1791. At twenty minutes before seven o'clock, we started
from the governor's house at Rose Hill and steered* for a short time nearly
in a north-east direction, after which we turned to north 34 degrees west,
and steadily pursued that course until a quarter before four o'clock, when
we halted for the night. The country for the first two miles, while we
walked to the northeast, was good, full of grass and without rock or
underwood.

Afterwards it grew very bad, being full of steep, barren rocks, over which
we were compelled to clamber for seven miles, when it changed to a plain
country apparently very sterile, and with very little grass in it, which
rendered walking easy. Our fatigue in the morning had, however, been so
oppressive that one of the party knocked up. And had not a soldier, as
strong as a pack-horse, undertaken to carry his knapsack in addition to his
own, we must either have sent him back, or have stopped at a place for the
night which did not afford water. Our two natives carried each his pack,
but its weight was inconsiderable, most of their provisions being in the
knapsacks of the soldiers and gamekeepers. We expected to have derived from
them much information relating to the country, as no one doubted that they
were acquainted with every part of it between the sea coast and the river
Hawkesbury. We hoped also to have witnessed their manner of living in
the woods, and the resources they rely upon in their journeys. Nothing,
however, of this sort had yet occurred, except their examining some
trees to see if they could discover on the bark any marks of the claws of
squirrels and opossums, which they said would show whether any of those
animals were hidden among the leaves and branches. They walked stoutly,
appeared but little fatigued, and maintained their spirits admirably,
laughing to excess when any of us either tripped or stumbled, misfortunes
which much seldomer fell to their lot than to ours.

[*Our method, on these expeditions, was to steer by compass, noting the
different courses as we proceeded; and counting the number of paces, of
which two thousand two hundred, on good ground, were allowed to be a mile.
At night when we halted, all these courses were separately cast up, and
worked by a traverse table, in the manner a ship's reckoning is kept, so
that by observing this precaution, we always knew exactly where we were,
and how far from home; an unspeakable advantage in a new country, where one
hill, and one tree, is so like another that fatal wanderings would ensue
without it. This arduous task was always allotted to Mr. Dawes who,
from habit and superior skill, performed it almost without a stop, or an
interruption of conversation: to any other man, on such terms, it would
have been impracticable.]

At a very short distance from Rose Hill, we found that they were in a
country unknown to them, so that the farther they went the more dependent
on us they became, being absolute strangers inland. To convey to their
understandings the intention of our journey was impossible. For, perhaps,
no words could unfold to an Indian the motives of curiosity which induce
men to encounter labour, fatigue and pain, when they might remain in repose
at home, with a sufficiency of food. We asked Colbee the name of the people
who live inland, and he called them Boorooberongal; and said they were bad,
whence we conjectured that they sometimes war with those on the sea coast,
by whom they were undoubtedly driven up the country from the fishing
ground, that it might not be overstocked; the weaker here, as in every
other country, giving way to the stronger.

We asked how they lived. He said, on birds and animals, having no fish.
Their laziness appeared strongly when we halted, for they refused to draw
water or to cleave wood to make a fire; but as soon as it was kindled
(having first well stuffed themselves), they lay down before it and fell
asleep. About an hour after sunset, as we were chatting by the fire side
and preparing to go to rest, we heard voices at a little distance in the
wood. Our natives caught the sound instantaneously and, bidding us be
silent, listened attentively to the quarter whence it had proceeded. In a
few minutes we heard the voices plainly; and, wishing exceedingly to open
a communication with this tribe, we begged our natives to call to them,
and bid them to come to us, to assure them of good treatment, and that they
should have something given them to eat. Colbee no longer hesitated,
but gave them the signal of invitation, in a loud hollow cry. After some
whooping and shouting on both sides, a man with a lighted stick in his hand
advanced near enough to converse with us. The first words which we could
distinctly understand were, 'I am Colbee, of the tribe of Cadigal.'
The stranger replied, 'I am Bereewan, of the tribe of Boorooberongal.'
Boladeree informed him also of his name and that we were white men and
friends, who would give him something to eat. Still he seemed irresolute.
Colbee therefore advanced to him, took him by the hand and led him to us.
By the light of the moon, we were introduced to this gentleman, all our
names being repeated in form by our two masters of the ceremonies, who said
that we were Englishmen and 'budyeeree' (good), that we came from the sea
coast, and that we were travelling inland.

Bereewan seemed to be a man about thirty years old, differing in no respect
from his countrymen with whom we were acquainted. He came to us unarmed,
having left his spears at a little distance. After a long conversation with
his countrymen, and having received some provisions, he departed highly
satisfied.

Tuesday, April 12th, 1791. Started this morning at half past six o'clock,
and in two hours reached the river. The whole of the country we passed
was poor, and the soil within a mile of the river changed to a coarse deep
sand, which I have invariably found to compose its banks in every part
without exception that I ever saw. The stream at this place is about 350
feet wide; the water pure and excellent to the taste. The banks are about
twenty feet high and covered with trees, many of which had been evidently
bent by the force of the current in the direction which it runs, and
some of them contained rubbish and drift wood in their branches at least
forty-five feet above the level of the stream. We saw many ducks, and
killed one, which Colbee swam for. No new production among the shrubs
growing here was found. We were acquainted with them all. Our natives had
evidently never seen this river before. They stared at it with surprise,
and talked to each other. Their total ignorance of the country, and of the
direction in which they had walked, appeared when they were asked which
way Rose Hill lay; for they pointed almost oppositely to it. Of our compass
they had taken early notice, and had talked much to each other about it.
They comprehended its use, and called it 'naamoro,' literally, "to see the
way"; a more significant or expressive term cannot be found.

Supposing ourselves to be higher on the stream than Richmond Hill, we
agreed to trace downward, or to the right hand. In tracing, we kept as
close to the bank of the river as the innumerable impediments to walking
which grow upon it would allow. We found the country low and swampy; came
to a native fireplace, at which were some small fish-bones; soon after we
saw a native, but he ran away immediately. Having walked nearly three miles
we were stopped by a creek which we could neither ford, or fall a tree
across. We were therefore obliged to coast it, in hope to find a passing
place or to reach its head. At four o'clock we halted for the night on
the bank of the creek. Our natives continued to hold out stoutly. The
hindrances to walking by the river side which plagued and entangled us so
much, seemed not to be heeded by them, and they wound through them with
case; but to us they were intolerably tiresome. Our perplexities afforded
them an inexhaustible fund of merriment and derision: Did the sufferer,
stung at once with nettles and ridicule, and shaken nigh to death by his
fall, use any angry expression to them, they retorted in a moment, by
calling him by every opprobrious name* which their language affords.

Boladeree destroyed a native hut today very wantonly before we could
prevent him. On being asked why he did so, he answered that the inhabitants
inland were bad; though no longer since than last night, when Bereewan
had departed, they were loud in their praise. But now they had reverted to
their first opinion; so fickle and transient are their motives of love and
hatred.

[*Their general favourite term of reproach is 'goninpatta', which signifies
'an eater of human excrement'. Our language would admit a very concise and
familiar translation. They have, besides this, innumerable others which
they often salute their enemies with.]


Wednesday, April 13th, 1791. We did not set out this morning until past
seven o'clock, when we continued to trace the creek. The country which we
passed through yesterday was good and desirable to what was now presented
to us. It was in general high and universally rocky. 'Toiling our uncouth
way', we mounted a hill, and surveyed the contiguous country. To the
northward and eastward, the ground was still higher than that we were upon;
but in a south-west direction we saw about four miles. The view consisted
of nothing but trees growing on precipices; not an acre of it could be
cultivated. Saw a tree on fire here, and several other vestiges of the
natives. To comprehend the reasons which induce an Indian to perform many
of the offices of life is difficult; to pronounce that which could lead him
to wander amidst these dreary wilds baffles penetration. About two o'clock
we reached the head of the creek, passed it and scrambled with infinite
toil and difficulty to the top of a neighbouring mountain, whence we saw
the adjacent country in almost every direction, for many miles. I record
with regret that this extended view presented not a single gleam of change
which could encourage hope or stimulate industry, to attempt its culture.
We had, however, the satisfaction to discover plainly the object of our
pursuit, Richmond Hill, distant about eight miles, in a contrary direction
from what we had been proceeding upon. It was readily known to those who
had been up the Hawkesbury in the boats, by a remarkable cleft or notch
which distinguishes it. It was now determined that we should go back to the
head of the creek and pass the night there; and in the morning cut
across the country to that part of the river which we had first hit
upon yesterday, and thence to trace upward, or to the left. But before I
descend, I must not forget to relate that to this pile of desolation on
which, like the fallen angel on the top of Niphates, we stood contemplating
our nether Eden, His Excellency was pleased to give the name of Tench's
Prospect Mount.

Our fatigue to-day had been excessive; but our two sable companions seemed
rather enlivened than exhausted by it. We had no sooner halted and given
them something to eat than they began to play ten thousand tricks and
gambols. They imitated the leaping of the kangaroo; sang, danced, poised
the spear and met in mock encounter. But their principal source of
merriment was again derived from our misfortunes, in tumbling amidst
nettles, and sliding down precipices, which they mimicked with inimitable
drollery. They had become, however, very urgent in their inquiries about
the time of our return, and we pacified them as well as we could by saying
it would be soon, but avoided naming how many days.

Their method of testifying dislike to any place is singular: they point to
the spot they are upon, and all around it, crying 'weeree, weeree' (bad)
and immediately after mention the name of any other place to which they
are attached (Rose Hill or Sydney for instance), adding to it 'budyeree,
budyeree' (good). Nor was their preference in the present case the
result of caprice, for they assigned very substantial reasons for such
predilection: "At Rose Hill," said they, "are potatoes, cabbages, pumpkins,
turnips, fish and wine; here are nothing but rocks and water." These
comparisons constantly ended with the question of "Where's Rose Hill?
Where?" on which they would throw up their hands and utter a sound to
denote distance, which it is impossible to convey an idea of upon paper.

Thursday, April 14th, 1791. We started early and reached the river in about
two hours and a half. The intermediate country, except for the last half
mile, was a continued bed of stones, which were in some places so thick and
close together that they looked like a pavement formed by art. When we got
off the stones, we came upon the coarse river sand beforementioned.

Here we began to trace upward. We had not proceeded far when we saw several
canoes on the river. Our natives made us immediately lie down among the
reeds, while they gave their countrymen the signal of approach. After much
calling, finding that they did not come, we continued our progress until
it was again interrupted by a creek, over which we threw a tree and passed
upon it. While this was doing, a native, from his canoe, entered into
conversation with us, and immediately after paddled to us with a frankness
and confidence which surprised every one. He was a man of middle age, with
an open cheerful countenance, marked with the small pox, and distinguished
by a nose of uncommon magnitude and dignity. He seemed to be neither
astonished or terrified at our appearance and number. Two stone hatchets,
and two spears he took from his canoe, and presented to the governor, who
in return for his courteous generosity, gave him two of our hatchets and
some bread, which was new to him, for he knew not its use, but kept
looking at it, until Colbee shewed him what to do, when he eat it
without hesitation. We pursued our course, and to accommodate us, our new
acquaintance pointed out a path and walked at the head of us. A canoe,
also with a man and a boy in it, kept gently paddling up abreast of us.
We halted for the night at our usual hour, on the bank of the river.
Immediately that we had stopped, our friend (who had already told us his
name) Gombeeree, introduced the man and the boy from the canoe to us. The
former was named Yellomundee, the latter Deeimba. The ease with which these
people behaved among strangers was as conspicuous, as unexpected. They
seated themselves at our fire, partook of our biscuit and pork, drank from
our canteens, and heard our guns going off around them without betraying
any symptom of fear, distrust or surprise. On the opposite bank of the
river they had left their wives and several children, with whom they
frequently discoursed; and we observed that these last manifested neither
suspicion or uneasiness of our designs towards their friends.

Having refreshed ourselves, we found leisure to enter into conversation
with them. It could not be expected that they should differ materially from
the tribes with whom we were acquainted. The same manners and pursuits, the
same amusements, the same levity and fickleness, undoubtedly characterised
them. What we were able to learn from them was that they depend but little
on fish, as the river yields only mullets, and that their principal support
is derived from small animals which they kill, and some roots (a species of
wild yam chiefly) which they dig out of the earth. If we rightly understood
them, each man possesses two wives. Whence can arise this superabundance of
females? Neither of the men had suffered the extraction of a front tooth.
We were eager to know whether or not this custom obtained among them. But
neither Colbee nor Boladeree would put the question for us; and on the
contrary, showed every desire to wave the subject. The uneasiness which
they testified, whenever we renewed it, rather served to confirm a
suspicion which we had long entertained, that this is a mark of subjection
imposed by the tribe of Cameragal, (who are certainly the most powerful
community in the country) on the weaker tribes around them. Whether the
women cut off a joint of one of the little fingers, like those on the sea
coast, we had no opportunity of observing. These are petty remarks. But
one variety struck us more forcibly. Although our natives and the strangers
conversed on a par and understood each other perfectly, yet they spoke
different dialects of the same language; many of the most common and
necessary words used in life bearing no similitude, and others being
slightly different.

------------------------------------------------------------
English Name on the sea coast Name at the Hawkesbury
------------------------------------------------------------

The Moon Yeneeda Condoen
The Ear Gooree Benna
The Forehead Nullo Narran
The Belly Barang Bindee
The Navel Muneero Boombong
The Buttocks Boong Baylee
The Neck Calang Ganga
The Thigh Tara Dara
The Hair Deewara Keewara
-------------------------------------------------------------

That these diversities arise from want of intercourse with the people
on the coast can hardly be imagined, as the distance inland is but
thirty-eight miles; and from Rose Hill not more than twenty, where the
dialect of the sea coast is spoken. It deserves notice that all the
different terms seemed to be familiar to both parties, though each in
speaking preferred its own*.

[*How easily people, unused to speak the same language, mistake each other,
everyone knows. We had lived almost three years at Port Jackson (for more
than half of which period natives had resided with us) before we knew that
the word 'beeal', signified 'no', and not 'good', in which latter sense we
had always used it without suspecting that we were wrong; and even without
being corrected by those with whom we talked daily. The cause of our error
was this. The epithet 'weeree', signifying 'bad', we knew; and as the
use of this word and its opposite afford the most simple form of denoting
consent or disapprobation to uninstructed Indians, in order to find out
their word for 'good', when Arabanoo was first brought among us, we used
jokingly to say that any thing, which he liked was 'weeree', in order to
provoke him to tell us that it was good. When we said 'weeree', he answered
'beeal', which we translated and adopted for 'good'; whereas he meant no
more than simply to deny our inference, and say 'no'--it is not bad.
After this, it cannot be thought extraordinary that the little vocabulary
inserted in Mr. Cook's account of this part of the world should appear
defective--even were we not to take in the great probability of the
dialects at Endeavour River and Van Diemen's land differing from that
spoken at Port Jackson. And it remains to be proved that the animal called
here 'patagaram' is not there called 'kangaroo'.]

Stretched out at ease before our fire, all sides continued to chat and
entertain each other. Gombeeree shewed us the mark of a wound which he had
received in his side from a spear. It was large, appeared to have passed to
a considerable depth, and must certainly have been attended with imminent
danger. By whom it had been inflicted, and on what occasion, he explained
to Colbee; and afterwards (as we understood) he entered into a detail of
the wars, and, as effects lead to causes, probably of the gallantries of
the district, for the word which signifies a woman was often repeated.
Colbee, in return for his communication, informed him who we were; of our
numbers at Sydney and Rose Hill, of the stores we possessed and, above all,
of the good things which were to be found among us, enumerating potatoes,
cabbages, turnips, pumpkins, and many other names which were perfectly
unintelligible to the person who heard them, but which he nevertheless
listened to with profound attention.

Perhaps the relation given by Gombeeree, of the cure of his wound, now
gave rise to the following superstitious ceremony. While they were talking,
Colbee turned suddenly round and asked for some water. I gave him a cupful,
which he presented with great seriousness to Yellomundee, as I supposed to
drink. This last indeed took the cup and filled his mouth with water, but
instead of swallowing it, threw his head into Colbee's bosom, spit the
water upon him and, immediately after, began to suck strongly at his
breast, just below the nipple. I concluded that the man was sick; and
called to the governor to observe the strange place which he had chosen to
exonerate his stomach. The silent attention observed by the other
natives, however, soon convinced us that something more than merely
the accommodation of Yellomundee, was intended. The ceremony was again
performed; and, after having sucked the part for a considerable time, the
operator pretended to receive something in his mouth, which was drawn from
the breast. With this he retired a few paces, put his hand to his lips and
threw into the river a stone, which I had observed him to pick up slily,
and secrete. When he returned to the fireside, Colbee assured us that
he had received signal benefit from the operation; and that this second
Machaon had extracted from his breast two splinters of a spear by which
he had been formerly wounded. We examined the part, but it was smooth and
whole, so that to the force of imagination alone must be imputed both the
wound and its cure. Colbee himself seemed nevertheless firmly persuaded
that he had received relief, and assured us that Yellomundee was a
'caradyee', or 'Doctor of renown'. And Boladeree added that not only he but
all the rest of his tribe were 'caradyee' of especial note and skill.

The Doctors remained with us all night, sleeping before the fire in the
fullness of good faith and security. The little boy slept in his father's
arms, and we observed that whenever the man was inclined to shift his
position, he first put over the child, with great care, and then turned
round to him.

Friday, April 15th, 1791. The return of light aroused us to the repetition
of toil. Our friends breakfasted with us, and previous to starting
Gombeeree gave a specimen of their manner of climbing trees in quest of
animals. He asked for a hatchet and one of ours was offered to him, but he
preferred one of their own making. With this tool he cut a small notch in
the tree he intended to climb, about two feet and a half above the ground,
in which he fixed the great toe of his left foot, and sprung upwards, at
the same time embracing the tree with his left arm. In an instant he had
cut a second notch for his right toe on the other side of the tree into
which he sprung, and thus, alternately cutting on each side, he mounted to
the height of twenty feet in nearly as short a space as if he had ascended
by a ladder, although the bark of the tree was quite smooth and slippery
and the trunk four feet in diameter and perfectly strait. To us it was a
matter of astonishment, but to him it was sport; for while employed thus he
kept talking to those below and laughing immoderately. He descended with
as much ease and agility as he had raised himself. Even our natives allowed
that he was a capital performer, against whom they dared not to enter
the lists; for as they subsist chiefly by fishing they are less expert at
climbing on the coast than those who daily practice it.