A Complete Account of the Settlement at Port Jackson
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A COMPLETE ACCOUNT OF THE SETTLEMENT AT PORT JACKSON
by Watkin Tench
PREFACE
When it is recollected how much has been written to describe the Settlement
of New South Wales, it seems necessary if not to offer an apology, yet to
assign a reason, for an additional publication.
The Author embarked in the fleet which sailed to found the establishment at
Botany Bay. He shortly after published a Narrative of the Proceedings and
State of the Colony, brought up to the beginning of July, 1788, which
was well received, and passed through three editions. This could not
but inspire both confidence and gratitude; but gratitude, would be badly
manifested were he on the presumption of former favour to lay claim
to present indulgence. He resumes the subject in the humble hope of
communicating information, and increasing knowledge, of the country, which
he describes.
He resided at Port Jackson nearly four years: from the 20th of January,
1788, until the 18th of December, 1791. To an active and contemplative
mind, a new country is an inexhaustible source of curiosity and
speculation. It was the author's custom not only to note daily occurrences,
and to inspect and record the progression of improvement; but also, when
not prevented by military duties, to penetrate the surrounding country in
different directions, in order to examine its nature, and ascertain its
relative geographical situations.
The greatest part of the work is inevitably composed of those materials
which a journal supplies; but wherever reflections could be introduced
without fastidiousness and parade, he has not scrupled to indulge them, in
common with every other deviation which the strictness of narrative would
allow.
When this publication was nearly ready for the press; and when many of
the opinions which it records had been declared, fresh accounts from Port
Jackson were received. To the state of a country, where so many anxious
trying hours of his life have passed, the author cannot feel indifferent.
If by any sudden revolution of the laws of nature; or by any fortunate
discovery of those on the spot, it has really become that fertile and
prosperous land, which some represent it to be, he begs permission to add
his voice to the general congratulation. He rejoices at its success: but
it is only justice to himself and those with whom he acted to declare, that
they feel no cause of reproach that so complete and happy an alteration did
not take place at an earlier period.
CHAPTER I.
A Retrospect of the State of the Colony of Port Jackson, on the Date of my
former Narrative, in July, 1788.
Previous to commencing any farther account of the subject, which I am about
to treat, such a retrospection of the circumstances and situation of the
settlement, at the conclusion of my former Narrative, as shall lay its
state before the reader, seems necessary, in order to connect the present
with the past.
The departure of the first fleet of ships for Europe, on the 14th of July,
1788, had been long impatiently expected; and had filled us with anxiety,
to communicate to our friends an account of our situation; describing the
progress of improvement, and the probability of success, or failure, in
our enterprise. That men should judge very oppositely on so doubtful and
precarious an event, will hardly surprise.
Such relations could contain little besides the sanguineness of hope, and
the enumeration of hardships and difficulties, which former accounts had
not led us to expect. Since our disembarkation in the preceding January,
the efforts of every one had been unremittingly exerted, to deposit the
public stores in a state of shelter and security, and to erect habitations
for ourselves. We were eager to escape from tents, where a fold of canvas,
only, interposed to check the vertic beams of the sun in summer, and the
chilling blasts of the south in winter. A markee pitched, in our finest
season, on an English lawn; or a transient view of those gay camps, near
the metropolis, which so many remember, naturally draws forth careless and
unmeaning exclamations of rapture, which attach ideas of pleasure only, to
this part of a soldier's life. But an encampment amidst the rocks and wilds
of a new country, aggravated by the miseries of bad diet, and incessant
toil, will find few admirers.
Nor were our exertions less unsuccessful than they were laborious. Under
wretched covers of thatch lay our provisions and stores, exposed to
destruction from every flash of lightning, and every spark of fire. A few
of the convicts had got into huts; but almost all the officers, and the
whole of the soldiery, were still in tents.
In such a situation, where knowledge of the mechanic arts afforded the
surest recommendation to notice, it may be easily conceived, that attention
to the parade duty of the troops, gradually diminished. Now were to be
seen officers and soldiers not "trailing the puissant pike" but felling the
ponderous gum-tree, or breaking the stubborn clod. And though "the broad
falchion did not in a ploughshare end" the possession of a spade, a
wheelbarrow, or a dunghill, was more coveted than the most refulgent arms
in which heroism ever dazzled. Those hours, which in other countries are
devoted to martial acquirements, were here consumed in the labours of the
sawpit, the forge and the quarry*.
[* "The Swedish prisoners, taken at the battle of Pultowa, were transported
by the Czar Peter to the most remote parts of Siberia, with a view to
civilize the natives of the country, and teach them the arts the Swedes
possessed. In this hopeless situation, all traces of discipline and
subordination, between the different ranks, were quickly obliterated. The
soldiers, who were husbandmen and artificers, found out their superiority,
and assumed it: the officers became their servants." VOLTAIRE.]
Of the two ships of war, the 'Sirius' and 'Supply', the latter was
incessantly employed in transporting troops, convicts, and stores, to
Norfolk Island; and the 'Sirius' in preparing for a voyage to some port,
where provisions for our use might be purchased, the expected supply from
England not having arrived. It is but justice to the officers and men of
both these ships to add, that, on all occasions, they fully shared every
hardship and fatigue with those on shore.
On the convicts the burden fell yet heavier: necessity compelled us to
allot to them the most slavish and laborious employments. Those operations,
which in other countries are performed by the brute creation, were here
effected by the exertions of men: but this ought not to be considered
a grievance; because they had always been taught to expect it, as the
inevitable consequence of their offences against society. Severity was
rarely exercised on them; and justice was administered without partiality
or discrimination. Their ration of provisions, except in being debarred
from an allowance of spirits, was equal to that which the marines received.
Under these circumstances I record with pleasure, that they behaved better
than had been predicted of them--to have expected sudden and complete
reformation of conduct, were romantic and chimerical.
Our cultivation of the land was yet in its infancy. We had hitherto tried
only the country contiguous to Sydney. Here the governor had established
a government-farm; at the head of which a competent person of his own
household was placed, with convicts to work under him. Almost the whole of
the officers likewise accepted of small tracts of ground, for the purpose
of raising grain and vegetables: but experience proved to us, that the soil
would produce neither without manure; and as this was not to be procured,
our vigour soon slackened; and most of the farms (among which was the one
belonging to government) were successively abandoned.
With the natives we were very little more acquainted than on our arrival
in the country. Our intercourse with them was neither frequent or cordial.
They seemed studiously to avoid us, either from fear, jealousy, or hatred.
When they met with unarmed stragglers, they sometimes killed, and sometimes
wounded them. I confess that, in common with many others, I was inclined
to attribute this conduct, to a spirit of malignant levity. But a farther
acquaintance with them, founded on several instances of their humanity and
generosity, which shall be noticed in their proper places, has entirely
reversed my opinion; and led me to conclude, that the unprovoked outrages
committed upon them, by unprincipled individuals among us, caused the
evils we had experienced. To prevent them from being plundered of their
fishing-tackle and weapons of war, a proclamation was issued, forbidding
their sale among us; but it was not attended with the good effect which was
hoped for from it.
During this period, notwithstanding the want of fresh provisions and
vegetables, and almost constant exposure to the vicissitudes of a variable
climate, disease rarely attacked us; and the number of deaths, was too
inconsiderable to deserve mention.
Norfolk Island had been taken possession of, by a party detached for that
purpose, early after our arrival. Few accounts of it had yet reached us.
And here I beg leave to observe, that as I can speak of this island only
from the relations of others, never having myself been there, I shall in
every part of this work mention it as sparingly as possible. And this more
especially, as it seems probable, that some of those gentlemen, who from
accurate knowledge, and long residence on it, are qualified to write its
history, will oblige the world with such a publication.
CHAPTER II.
Transactions of the Colony from the sailing of the First Fleet in July,
1788, to the Close of that Year.
It was impossible to behold without emotion the departure of the ships. On
their speedy arrival in England perhaps hinged our fate; by hastening our
supplies to us.
On the 20th of July, the 'Supply' sailed for Norfolk Island, and returned
to us on the 26th of August; bringing no material news, except that the
soil was found to suit grain, and other seeds, which had been sown in it,
and that a species of flax-plant was discovered to grow spontaneously on
the island.
A survey of the harbour of Port Jackson was now undertaken, in order to
compute the number of canoes, and inhabitants, which it might contain:
sixty-seven canoes, and 147 people were counted. No estimate, however, of
even tolerable accuracy, can be drawn from so imperfect a datum; though it
was perhaps the best in our power to acquire.
In July and August, we experienced more inclement tempestuous weather
than had been observed at any former period of equal duration. And yet
it deserves to be remarked, in honour of the climate, that, although our
number of people exceeded 900, not a single death happened in the latter
month.
The dread of want in a country destitute of natural resource is ever
peculiarly terrible. We had long turned our eyes with impatience towards
the sea, cheered by the hope of seeing supplies from England approach. But
none arriving, on the 2d of October the 'Sirius' sailed for the Cape of
Good Hope, with directions to purchase provisions there, for the use of our
garrison.
A new settlement, named by the governor Rose Hill, 16 miles inland, was
established on the 3d of November, the soil here being judged better
than that around Sydney. A small redoubt was thrown up, and a captain's
detachment posted in it, to protect the convicts who were employed to
cultivate the ground.
The two last of the transports left us for England on the 19th of November,
intending to make their passage by Cape Horn. There now remained with us
only the 'Supply'. Sequestered and cut off as we were from the rest of
civilized nature, their absence carried the effect of desolation. About
this time a convict, of the name of Daly, was hanged, for a burglary:
this culprit, who was a notorious thief and impostor, was the author of a
discovery of a gold mine, a few months before: a composition resembling
ore mingled with earth, which he pretended to have brought from it, he
produced. After a number of attendant circumstances, too ludicrous and
contemptible to relate, which befell a party, who were sent under his
guidance to explore this second Peru, he at last confessed, that he had
broken up an old pair of buckles, and mixed the pieces with sand and stone;
and on assaying the composition, the brass was detected. The fate of this
fellow I should not deem worth recording, did it not lead to the following
observation, that the utmost circumspection is necessary to prevent
imposition, in those who give accounts of what they see in unknown
countries. We found the convicts particularly happy in fertility of
invention, and exaggerated descriptions. Hence large fresh water rivers,
valuable ores, and quarries of limestone, chalk, and marble, were daily
proclaimed soon after we had landed. At first we hearkened with avidity
to such accounts; but perpetual disappointments taught us to listen with
caution, and to believe from demonstration only.
Unabated animosity continued to prevail between the natives and us:
in addition to former losses, a soldier and several convicts suddenly
disappeared, and were never afterwards heard of. Three convicts were also
wounded, and one killed by them, near Botany Bay: similar to the vindictive
spirit which Mr. Cook found to exist among their countrymen at Endeavour
River, they more than once attempted to set fire to combustible matter, in
order to annoy us. Early on the morning of the 18th of December, word was
brought that they were assembled in force, near the brick-kilns, which
stand but a mile from the town of Sydney. The terror of those who brought
the first intelligence magnified the number to two thousand; a second
messenger diminished it to four hundred. A detachment, under the command
of an officer was ordered to march immediately, and reconnoitre them. The
officer soon returned, and reported, that about fifty Indians had appeared
at the brick-kilns; but upon the convicts, who were at work there, pointing
their spades and shovels at them, in the manner of guns, they had fled into
the woods.
Tired of this state of petty warfare and endless uncertainty, the governor
at length determined to adopt a decisive measure, by capturing some of
them, and retaining them by force; which we supposed would either inflame
the rest to signal vengeance, in which case we should know the worst, and
provide accordingly: or else it would induce an intercourse, by the report
which our prisoners would make of the mildness and indulgence with which we
used them. And farther, it promised to unveil the cause of their mysterious
conduct, by putting us in possession of their reasons for harassing and
destroying our people, in the manner I have related. Boats were accordingly
ordered to be got ready, and every preparation made, which could lead to
the attainment of our object.
But as this subject deserves to be particularly detailed, I shall,
notwithstanding its being just within the period of time which this chapter
professes to comprise, allot it a separate place, in the beginning of the
next.
Nor can I close this part of my work without congratulating both the reader
and the author. New matter now presents itself. A considerable part of the
foregoing chapters had been related before, either by others or myself.
I was however, unavoidably compelled to insert it, in order to preserve
unbroken that chain of detail, and perspicuity of arrangement, at which
books professing to convey information should especially aim.
CHAPTER III.
Transactions of the Colony, from the Commencement of the Year 1789, until
the End of March.
Pursuant to his resolution, the governor on the 31st of December sent two
boats, under the command of Lieutenant Ball of the 'Supply', and Lieutenant
George Johnston of the marines, down the harbour, with directions to those
officers to seize and carry off some of the natives. The boats proceeded to
Manly Cove, where several Indians were seen standing on the beach, who
were enticed by courteous behaviour and a few presents to enter into
conversation. A proper opportunity being presented, our people rushed
in among them, and seized two men: the rest fled; but the cries of the
captives soon brought them back, with many others, to their rescue: and so
desperate were their struggles, that, in spite of every effort on our side,
only one of them was secured; the other effected his escape. The boats put
off without delay; and an attack from the shore instantly commenced: they
threw spears, stones, firebrands, and whatever else presented itself, at
the boats; nor did they retreat, agreeable to their former custom, until
many musquets were fired over them.
The prisoner was now fastened by ropes to the thwarts of the boat; and when
he saw himself irretrievably disparted from his countrymen, set up the
most piercing and lamentable cries of distress. His grief, however, soon
diminished: he accepted and ate of some broiled fish which was given to
him, and sullenly submitted to his destiny.
When the news of his arrival at Sydney was announced, I went with every
other person to see him: he appeared to be about thirty years old,
not tall, but robustly made; and of a countenance which, under happier
circumstances, I thought would display manliness and sensibility; his
agitation was excessive, and the clamourous crowds who flocked around
him did not contribute to lessen it. Curiosity and observation seemed,
nevertheless, not to have wholly deserted him; he shewed the effect of
novelty upon ignorance; he wondered at all he saw: though broken and
interrupted with dismay, his voice was soft and musical, when its natural
tone could be heard; and he readily pronounced with tolerable accuracy
the names of things which were taught him. To our ladies he quickly became
extraordinarily courteous, a sure sign that his terror was wearing off.
Every blandishment was used to soothe him, and it had its effect. As he
was entering the governor's house, some one touched a small bell which hung
over the door: he started with horror and astonishment; but in a moment
after was reconciled to the noise, and laughed at the cause of his
perturbation. When pictures were shown to him, he knew directly those which
represented the human figure: among others, a very large handsome print of
her royal highness the Dutchess of Cumberland being produced, he called out
'woman', a name by which we had just before taught him to call the female
convicts. Plates of birds and beasts were also laid before him; and many
people were led to believe, that such as he spoke about and pointed to
were known to him. But this must have been an erroneous conjecture, for the
elephant, rhinoceros, and several others, which we must have discovered did
they exist in the country, were of the number. Again, on the other hand,
those he did not point out, were equally unknown to him.
His curiosity here being satiated, we took him to a large brick house,
which was building for the governor's residence: being about to enter, he
cast up his eyes, and seeing some people leaning out of a window on
the first story, he exclaimed aloud, and testified the most extravagant
surprise. Nothing here was observed to fix his attention so strongly as
some tame fowls, who were feeding near him: our dogs also he particularly
noticed; but seemed more fearful than fond of them.
He dined at a side-table at the governor's; and ate heartily of fish and
ducks, which he first cooled. Bread and salt meat he smelled at, but would
not taste: all our liquors he treated in the same manner, and could drink
nothing but water. On being shown that he was not to wipe his hands on the
chair which he sat upon, he used a towel which was gave to him, with great
cleanliness and decency.
In the afternoon his hair was closely cut, his head combed, and his beard
shaved; but he would not submit to these operations until he had seen them
performed on another person, when he readily acquiesced. His hair, as might
be supposed, was filled with vermin, whose destruction seemed to afford him
great triumph; nay, either revenge, or pleasure, prompted him to eat them!
but on our expressing disgust and abhorrence he left it off.
To this succeeded his immersion in a tub of water and soap, where he was
completely washed and scrubbed from head to foot; after which a shirt,
a jacket, and a pair of trousers, were put upon him. Some part of this
ablution I had the honour to perform, in order that I might ascertain the
real colour of the skin of these people. My observation then was (and it
has since been confirmed in a thousand other instances) that they are as
black as the lighter cast of the African negroes.
Many unsuccessful attempts were made to learn his name; the governor
therefore called him Manly, from the cove in which he was captured: this
cove had received its name from the manly undaunted behaviour of a party of
natives seen there, on our taking possession of the country.
To prevent his escape, a handcuff with a rope attached to it, was fastened
around his left wrist, which at first highly delighted him; he called it
'bengadee' (or ornament), but his delight changed to rage and hatred when
he discovered its use. His supper he cooked himself: some fish were given
to him for this purpose, which, without any previous preparation whatever,
he threw carelessly on the fire, and when they became warm took them up,
and first rubbed off the scales, peeled the outside with his teeth, and ate
it; afterwards he gutted them, and laying them again on the fire, completed
the dressing, and ate them.
A convict was selected to sleep with him, and to attend him wherever he
might go. When he went with his keeper into his apartment he appeared very
restless and uneasy while a light was kept in; but on its extinction, he
immediately lay down and composed himself.
Sullenness and dejection strongly marked his countenance on the
following morning; to amuse him, he was taken around the camp, and to the
observatory: casting his eyes to the opposite shore from the point where
he stood, and seeing the smoke of fire lighted by his countrymen, he looked
earnestly at it, and sighing deeply two or three times, uttered the word
'gweeun' (fire).
His loss of spirits had not, however, the effect of impairing his appetite;
eight fish, each weighing about a pound, constituted his breakfast, which
he dressed as before. When he had finished his repast, he turned his back
to the fire in a musing posture, and crept so close to it, that his shirt
was caught by the flame; luckily his keeper soon extinguished it; but he
was so terrified at the accident, that he was with difficulty persuaded to
put on a second.
1st. January, 1789. To-day being new-year's-day, most of the officers were
invited to the governor's table: Manly dined heartily on fish and roasted
pork; he was seated on a chest near a window, out of which, when he had
done eating, he would have thrown his plate, had he not been prevented:
during dinner-time a band of music played in an adjoining apartment; and
after the cloth was removed, one of the company sang in a very soft
and superior style; but the powers of melody were lost on Manly, which
disappointed our expectations, as he had before shown pleasure and
readiness in imitating our tunes. Stretched out on his chest, and putting
his hat under his head, he fell asleep.
To convince his countrymen that he had received no injury from us, the
governor took him in a boat down the harbour, that they might see and
converse with him: when the boat arrived, and lay at a little distance
from the beach, several Indians who had retired at her approach, on seeing
Manly, returned: he was greatly affected, and shed tears. At length they
began to converse. Our ignorance of the language prevented us from knowing
much of what passed; it was, however, easily understood that his friends
asked him why he did not jump overboard, and rejoin them. He only sighed,
and pointed to the fetter on his leg, by which he was bound.
In going down the harbour he had described the names by which they
distinguish its numerous creeks and headlands: he was now often heard to
repeat that of 'Weerong' (Sydney Cove), which was doubtless to inform his
countrymen of the place of his captivity; and perhaps invite them to rescue
him. By this time his gloom was chased away, and he parted from his friends
without testifying reluctance. His vivacity and good humour continued all
the evening, and produced so good an effect on his appetite, that he ate
for supper two kangaroo rats, each of the size of a moderate rabbit, and in
addition not less than three pounds of fish.
Two days after he was taken on a similar excursion; but to our surprise the
natives kept aloof, and would neither approach the shore, or discourse with
their countryman: we could get no explanation of this difficulty, which
seemed to affect us more than it did him. Uncourteous as they were, he
performed to them an act of attentive benevolence; seeing a basket made
of bark, used by them to carry water, he conveyed into it two hawks and
another bird, which the people in the boat had shot, and carefully covering
them over, left them as a present to his old friends. But indeed the
gentleness and humanity of his disposition frequently displayed themselves:
when our children, stimulated by wanton curiosity, used to flock around
him, he never failed to fondle them, and, if he were eating at the time,
constantly offered them the choicest part of his fare.