The Adventures of Captain Bonneville

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The Crows drew off out of bow-shot, and endeavored, by taunts and
bravadoes, to draw the warriors Out of their retreat. A few of the best
mounted among them rode apart from the rest. One of their number then
advanced alone, with that martial air and equestrian grace for which
the tribe is noted. When within an arrow's flight of the thicket, he
loosened his rein, urged his horse to full speed, threw his body on the
opposite side, so as to hang by one leg, and present no mark to the foe;
in this way he swept along in front of the thicket, launching his arrows
from under the neck of his steed. Then regaining his seat in the saddle,
he wheeled round and returned whooping and scoffing to his companions,
who received him with yells of applause.

Another and another horseman repeated this exploit; but the Blackfeet
were not to be taunted out of their safe shelter. The victors feared
to drive desperate men to extremities, so they forbore to attempt
the thicket. Toward night they gave over the attack, and returned
all-glorious with the scalps of the slain. Then came on the usual feasts
and triumphs, the scalp-dance of warriors round the ghastly trophies,
and all the other fierce revelry of barbarous warfare. When the braves
had finished with the scalps, they were, as usual, given up to the women
and children, and made the objects of new parades and dances. They were
then treasured up as invaluable trophies and decorations by the braves
who had won them.

It is worthy of note, that the scalp of a white man, either through
policy or fear, is treated with more charity than that of an Indian. The
warrior who won it is entitled to his triumph if he demands it. In such
case, the war party alone dance round the scalp. It is then taken down,
and the shagged frontlet of a buffalo substituted in its place, and
abandoned to the triumph and insults of the million.

To avoid being involved in these guerillas, as well as to escape
from the extremely social intercourse of the Crows, which began to be
oppressive, Montero moved to the distance of several miles from their
camps, and there formed a winter cantonment of huts. He now maintained a
vigilant watch at night. Their horses, which were turned loose to graze
during the day, under heedful eyes, were brought in at night, and shut
up in strong pens, built of large logs of cotton-wood. The snows, during
a portion of the winter, were so deep that the poor animals could find
but little sustenance. Here and there a tuft of grass would peer above
the snow; but they were in general driven to browse the twigs and tender
branches of the trees. When they were turned out in the morning, the
first moments of freedom from the confinement of the pen were spent in
frisking and gambolling. This done, they went soberly and sadly to work,
to glean their scanty subsistence for the day. In the meantime the men
stripped the bark of the cotton-wood tree for the evening fodder. As the
poor horses would return toward night, with sluggish and dispirited air,
the moment they saw their owners approaching them with blankets filled
with cotton-wood bark, their whole demeanor underwent a change. A
universal neighing and capering took place; they would rush forward,
smell to the blankets, paw the earth, snort, whinny and prance round
with head and tail erect, until the blankets were opened, and the
welcome provender spread before them. These evidences of intelligence
and gladness were frequently recounted by the trappers as proving the
sagacity of the animal.

These veteran rovers of the mountains look upon their horses as in some
respects gifted with almost human intellect. An old and experienced
trapper, when mounting guard upon the camp in dark nights and times
of peril, gives heedful attention to all the sounds and signs of the
horses. No enemy enters nor approaches the camp without attracting their
notice, and their movements not only give a vague alarm, but it is said,
will even indicate to the knowing trapper the very quarter whence the
danger threatens.

In the daytime, too, while a hunter is engaged on the prairie, cutting
up the deer or buffalo he has slain, he depends upon his faithful horse
as a sentinel. The sagacious animal sees and smells all round him,
and by his starting and whinnying, gives notice of the approach of
strangers. There seems to be a dumb communion and fellowship, a sort of
fraternal sympathy between the hunter and his horse. They mutually
rely upon each other for company and protection; and nothing is more
difficult, it is said, than to surprise an experienced hunter on the
prairie while his old and favorite steed is at his side.

Montero had not long removed his camp from the vicinity of the Crows,
and fixed himself in his new quarters, when the Blackfeet marauders
discovered his cantonment, and began to haunt the vicinity, He kept up a
vigilant watch, however, and foiled every attempt of the enemy, who,
at length, seemed to have given up in despair, and abandoned the
neighborhood. The trappers relaxed their vigilance, therefore, and one
night, after a day of severe labor, no guards were posted, and the whole
camp was soon asleep. Toward midnight, however, the lightest sleepers
were roused by the trampling of hoofs; and, giving the alarm, the whole
party were immediately on their legs and hastened to the pens. The bars
were down; but no enemy was to be seen or heard, and the horses being
all found hard by, it was supposed the bars had been left down through
negligence. All were once more asleep, when, in about an hour there was
a second alarm, and it was discovered that several horses were missing.
The rest were mounted, and so spirited a pursuit took place, that
eighteen of the number carried off were regained, and but three remained
in possession of the enemy. Traps for wolves, had been set about
the camp the preceding day. In the morning it was discovered that a
Blackfoot was entrapped by one of them, but had succeeded in dragging
it off. His trail was followed for a long distance which he must have
limped alone. At length he appeared to have fallen in with some of his
comrades, who had relieved him from his painful encumbrance.

These were the leading incidents of Montero's campaign in the Crow
country. The united parties now celebrated the 4th of July, in rough
hunters' style, with hearty conviviality; after which Captain Bonneville
made his final arrangements. Leaving Montero with a brigade of trappers
to open another campaign, he put himself at the head of the residue
of his men, and set off on his return to civilized life. We shall not
detail his journey along the course of the Nebraska, and so, from point
to point of the wilderness, until he and his band reached the frontier
settlements on the 22d of August.

Here, according to his own account, his cavalcade might have been taken
for a procession of tatterdemalion savages; for the men were ragged
almost to nakedness, and had contracted a wildness of aspect during
three years of wandering in the wilderness. A few hours in a populous
town, however, produced a magical metamorphosis. Hats of the most ample
brim and longest nap; coats with buttons that shone like mirrors, and
pantaloons of the most ample plenitude, took place of the well-worn
trapper's equipments; and the happy wearers might be seen strolling
about in all directions, scattering their silver like sailors just from
a cruise.

The worthy captain, however, seems by no means to have shared the
excitement of his men, on finding himself once more in the thronged
resorts of civilized life, but, on the contrary, to have looked back
to the wilderness with regret. "Though the prospect," says he, "of once
more tasting the blessings of peaceful society, and passing days and
nights under the calm guardianship of the laws, was not without its
attractions; yet to those of us whose whole lives had been spent in
the stirring excitement and perpetual watchfulness of adventures in
the wilderness, the change was far from promising an increase of that
contentment and inward satisfaction most conducive to happiness. He who,
like myself, has roved almost from boyhood among the children of the
forest, and over the unfurrowed plains and rugged heights of the western
wastes, will not be startled to learn, that notwithstanding all the
fascinations of the world on this civilized side of the mountains, I
would fain make my bow to the splendors and gayeties of the metropolis,
and plunge again amidst the hardships and perils of the wilderness."

We have only to add that the affairs of the captain have been
satisfactorily arranged with the War Department, and that he is actually
in service at Fort Gibson, on our western frontier, where we hope he may
meet with further opportunities of indulging his peculiar tastes, and of
collecting graphic and characteristic details of the great western wilds
and their motley inhabitants.

We here close our picturings of the Rocky Mountains and their wild
inhabitants, and of the wild life that prevails there; which we have
been anxious to fix on record, because we are aware that this singular
state of things is full of mutation, and must soon undergo great
changes, if not entirely pass away. The fur trade itself, which has
given life to all this portraiture, is essentially evanescent.
Rival parties of trappers soon exhaust the streams, especially when
competition renders them heedless and wasteful of the beaver. The
furbearing animals extinct, a complete change will come over the scene;
the gay free trapper and his steed, decked out in wild array, and
tinkling with bells and trinketry; the savage war chief, plumed and
painted and ever on the prowl; the traders' cavalcade, winding through
defiles or over naked plains, with the stealthy war party lurking on its
trail; the buffalo chase, the hunting camp, the mad carouse in the
midst of danger, the night attack, the stampede, the scamper, the fierce
skirmish among rocks and cliffs--all this romance of savage life, which
yet exists among the mountains, will then exist but in frontier story,
and seem like the fictions of chivalry or fairy tale.

Some new system of things, or rather some new modification, will succeed
among the roving people of this vast wilderness; but just as opposite,
perhaps, to the inhabitants of civilization. The great Chippewyan chain
of mountains, and the sandy and volcanic plains which extend on either
side, are represented as incapable of cultivation. The pasturage which
prevails there during a certain portion of the year, soon withers under
the aridity of the atmosphere, and leaves nothing but dreary wastes.
An immense belt of rocky mountains and volcanic plains, several
hundred miles in width, must ever remain an irreclaimable wilderness,
intervening between the abodes of civilization, and affording a last
refuge to the Indian. Here roving tribes of hunters, living in tents
or lodges, and following the migrations of the game, may lead a life of
savage independence, where there is nothing to tempt the cupidity of the
white man. The amalgamation of various tribes, and of white men of every
nation, will in time produce hybrid races like the mountain Tartars of
the Caucasus. Possessed as they are of immense droves of horses should
they continue their present predatory and warlike habits, they may in
time become a scourge to the civilized frontiers on either side of the
mountains, as they are at present a terror to the traveller and trader.

The facts disclosed in the present work clearly manifest the policy of
establishing military posts and a mounted force to protect our traders
in their journeys across the great western wilds, and of pushing the
outposts into the very heart of the singular wilderness we have laid
open, so as to maintain some degree of sway over the country, and to put
an end to the kind of "blackmail," levied on all occasions by the savage
"chivalry of the mountains."




Appendix

Nathaniel J. Wyeth, and the Trade of the Far West

WE HAVE BROUGHT Captain Bonneville to the end of his western
campaigning; yet we cannot close this work without subjoining some
particulars concerning the fortunes of his contemporary, Mr. Wyeth;
anecdotes of whose enterprise have, occasionally, been interwoven in
the party-colored web of our narrative. Wyeth effected his intention of
establishing a trading post on the Portneuf, which he named Fort Hall.
Here, for the first time, the American flag was unfurled to the breeze
that sweeps the great naked wastes of the central wilderness. Leaving
twelve men here, with a stock of goods, to trade with the neighboring
tribes, he prosecuted his journey to the Columbia; where he established
another post, called Fort Williams, on Wappatoo Island, at the mouth
of the Wallamut. This was to be the head factory of his company; whence
they were to carry on their fishing and trapping operations, and their
trade with the interior; and where they were to receive and dispatch
their annual ship.

The plan of Mr. Wyeth appears to have been well concerted. He had
observed that the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, the bands of free
trappers, as well as the Indians west of the mountains, depended for
their supplies upon goods brought from St. Louis; which, in consequence
of the expenses and risks of a long land carriage, were furnished them
at an immense advance on first cost. He had an idea that they might be
much more cheaply supplied from the Pacific side. Horses would cost
much less on the borders of the Columbia than at St. Louis: the
transportation by land was much shorter; and through a country much more
safe from the hostility of savage tribes; which, on the route from and
to St. Louis, annually cost the lives of many men. On this idea, he
grounded his plan. He combined the salmon fishery with the fur trade. A
fortified trading post was to be established on the Columbia, to carry
on a trade with the natives for salmon and peltries, and to fish and
trap on their own account. Once a year, a ship was to come from the
United States, to bring out goods for the interior trade, and to take
home the salmon and furs which had been collected. Part of the goods,
thus brought out, were to be dispatched to the mountains, to supply the
trapping companies and the Indian tribes, in exchange for their furs;
which were to be brought down to the Columbia, to be sent home in
the next annual ship: and thus an annual round was to be kept up. The
profits on the salmon, it was expected, would cover all the expenses
of the ship; so that the goods brought out, and the furs carried home,
would cost nothing as to freight.

His enterprise was prosecuted with a spirit, intelligence, and
perseverance, that merited success. All the details that we have met
with, prove him to be no ordinary man. He appears to have the mind to
conceive, and the energy to execute extensive and striking plans. He had
once more reared the American flag in the lost domains of Astoria;
and had he been enabled to maintain the footing he had so gallantly
effected, he might have regained for his country the opulent trade of
the Columbia, of which our statesmen have negligently suffered us to be
dispossessed.

It is needless to go into a detail of the variety of accidents and
cross-purposes, which caused the failure of his scheme. They were such
as all undertakings of the kind, involving combined operations by sea
and land, are liable to. What he most wanted, was sufficient capital
to enable him to endure incipient obstacles and losses; and to hold
on until success had time to spring up from the midst of disastrous
experiments.

It is with extreme regret we learn that he has recently been compelled
to dispose of his establishment at Wappatoo Island, to the Hudson's
Bay Company; who, it is but justice to say, have, according to his own
account, treated him throughout the whole of his enterprise, with great
fairness, friendship, and liberality. That company, therefore, still
maintains an unrivalled sway over the whole country washed by the
Columbia and its tributaries. It has, in fact, as far as its chartered
powers permit, followed out the splendid scheme contemplated by Mr.
Astor, when he founded his establishment at the mouth of the Columbia.
From their emporium of Vancouver, companies are sent forth in every
direction, to supply the interior posts, to trade with the natives, and
to trap upon the various streams. These thread the rivers, traverse
the plains, penetrate to the heart of the mountains, extend their
enterprises northward, to the Russian possessions, and southward, to the
confines of California. Their yearly supplies are received by sea, at
Vancouver; and thence their furs and peltries are shipped to London.
They likewise maintain a considerable commerce, in wheat and
lumber, with the Pacific islands, and to the north, with the Russian
settlements.

Though the company, by treaty, have a right to a participation only, in
the trade of these regions, and are, in fact, but tenants on sufferance;
yet have they quietly availed themselves of the original oversight,
and subsequent supineness of the American government, to establish
a monopoly of the trade of the river and its dependencies; and are
adroitly proceeding to fortify themselves in their usurpation, by
securing all the strong points of the country.

Fort George, originally Astoria, which was abandoned on the removal of
the main factory to Vancouver, was renewed in 1830; and is now kept
up as a fortified post and trading house. All the places accessible to
shipping have been taken possession of, and posts recently established
at them by the company.

The great capital of this association; their long established system;
their hereditary influence over the Indian tribes; their internal
organization, which makes every thing go on with the regularity of a
machine; and the low wages of their people, who are mostly Canadians,
give them great advantages over the American traders: nor is it likely
the latter will ever be able to maintain any footing in the land, until
the question of territorial right is adjusted between the two countries.
The sooner that takes place, the better. It is a question too serious
to national pride, if not to national interests, to be slurred over; and
every year is adding to the difficulties which environ it.

The fur trade, which is now the main object of enterprise west of the
Rocky Mountains, forms but a part of the real resources of the country.
Beside the salmon fishery of the Columbia, which is capable of being
rendered a considerable source of profit; the great valleys of the lower
country, below the elevated volcanic plateau, are calculated to give
sustenance to countless flocks and herds, and to sustain a great
population of graziers and agriculturists.

Such, for instance, is the beautiful valley of the Wallamut; from which
the establishment at Vancouver draws most of its supplies. Here,
the company holds mills and farms; and has provided for some of its
superannuated officers and servants. This valley, above the falls, is
about fifty miles wide, and extends a great distance to the south. The
climate is mild, being sheltered by lateral ranges of mountains; while
the soil, for richness, has been equalled to the best of the Missouri
lands. The valley of the river Des Chutes, is also admirably calculated
for a great grazing country. All the best horses used by the company for
the mountains are raised there. The valley is of such happy temperature,
that grass grows there throughout the year, and cattle may be left out
to pasture during the winter.

These valleys must form the grand points of commencement of the future
settlement of the country; but there must be many such, en folded in the
embraces of these lower ranges of mountains; which, though at present
they lie waste and uninhabited, and to the eye of the trader and
trapper, present but barren wastes, would, in the hands of skilful
agriculturists and husbandmen, soon assume a different aspect, and teem
with waving crops, or be covered with flocks and herds.

The resources of the country, too, while in the hands of a company
restricted in its trade, can be but partially called forth; but in the
hands of Americans, enjoying a direct trade with the East Indies, would
be brought into quickening activity; and might soon realize the dream of
Mr. Astor, in giving rise to a flourishing commercial empire.




Wreck of a Japanese Junk on the Northwest Coast

THE FOLLOWING EXTRACT of a letter which we received, lately, from Mr.
Wyeth, may be interesting, as throwing some light upon the question as
to the manner in which America has been peopled.

"Are you aware of the fact, that in the winter of 1833, a Japanese
junk was wrecked on the northwest coast, in the neighborhood of Queen
Charlotte's Island; and that all but two of the crew, then much reduced
by starvation and disease, during a long drift across the Pacific, were
killed by the natives? The two fell into the hands of the Hudson's
Bay Company, and were sent to England. I saw them, on my arrival at
Vancouver, in 1834."




Instructions to Captain Bonneville

from the Major-General Commanding the Army of the United States.

Copy

Head Quarters of the Army. Washington 29th July 1831.

Sir,

The leave of absence which you have asked for the purpose of enabling
you to carry into execution your designs of exploring the country to the
Rocky Mountains, and beyond with a view of ascertaining the nature and
character of the various tribes of Indians inhabiting those regions; the
trade which might be profitably carried on with them, the quality of the
soil, the productions, the minerals, the natural history, the climate,
the Geography, and Topography, as well as Geology of the various parts
of the Country within the limits of the Territories belonging to the
United States, between our frontier, and the Pacific; has been duly
considered, and submitted to the War Department, for approval, and has
been sanctioned.

You are therefore authorised to be absent from the Army until October
1833.

It is understood that the Government is to be at no expence, in
reference to your proposed expedition, it having originated with
yourself, and all that you required was the permission from the proper
authority to undertake the enterprise. You will naturally in providing
yourself for the expedition, provide suitable instruments, and
especially the best Maps of the interior to be found. It is desirable
besides what is enumerated as the object of enterprise that you note
particularly the number of Warriors that may belong to each tribe, or
nation that you may meet with: their alliances with other tribes and
their relative position as to a state of peace or war, and whether their
friendly or warlike dispositions towards each other are recent or of
long standing. You will gratify us by describing the manner of their
making War, of the mode of subsisting themselves during a state of war,
and a state of peace, their Arms, and the effect of them, whether they
act on foot or on horse back, detailing the discipline, and manuvers
of the war parties, the power of their horses, size and general
discription; in short any information which you may conceive would be
useful to the Government. You will avail yourself of every opportunity
of informing us of your position and progress, and at the expiration of
your leave of absence will join your proper station.

I have the honor to be Sir, Your Ot St

(Signed) Alexr Macomb Maj Genl Comg

To Cap: B. L E Bonneville 7th Regt Infantry New York